• 10Jan

    Dogwalk planks are 12” across and require great foot dexterity to navigate safely.  If you begin teaching puppies and young dogs on the flat how to keep their paws under control (and under their bodies!) you will have a step ahead on safely navigating dogwalks and A-frames.

    Lay the ladder flat on the ground and coax or shape your dog to walk it.  When they trot along the length of the ladder confidently, flip it onto its legs and ask the dog to walk that way, raising each foot high, like a football player.

    Ladders teach the dog not only to be aware of their feet, but also to walk along a long, narrow length.  By training your dog on a ladder, you are helping them learn how to run over a dogwalk beam.

    After your dog has mastered ladders, start them on a plank on the ground, then on cinderblocks.  Soon you’ll have a brilliant dogwalker!

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  • 23Sep

    As we head into the colder months, it gets a little harder to exercise our dogs throughout the north.

    Walking is an important conditioning exercise.  Sometimes the weather is too hot or too cold to walk outside safely, and some owners have difficulty walking the distances their dogs need to walk.  Doggie Treadmills make walking the dog much easier, and safer in inclement weather, and are a boon for apartment dwellers.

    Treadmills are easy to train with lots of positive reinforcement, if you go slow and steady.  They’re also wonderful for strengthening the hamstring/gluteal section of your dogs body (hind end :) )  if you use the incline properly. For an active agility dog, endurance exercises can be a godsend since it builds muscle tone and encourages deep-chested breathing. Make certain to warm-up and cool down your dog properly before and after their treadmill session, and to monitor them carefully.

    Treadmills are also very useful in after-injury care, since it controls the dog’s pace and allows them to build up muscle.

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  • 26Nov

    Winter is fast approaching here in New York.  It snowed this week! Time to bring the agility equipment in, or at least batten it down!

    How do you winterize your course?

    • Take stock. What do you have? Write it down and put it in your record book or agility journal so in the spring you’ll know where it is- or so you know what to ask for christmas :) !  (quick note about that- keep an eye on affordableagility.com, we’re having great holiday sales!)
    • Do repairs before putting it away.  Did your dog knock a fitting loose and you just haven’t fixed it? fix it now so it will not be lost in the spring.
    • Care for your Contacts. Now is also the time to recoat or repaint your obstacles if you’re going to do it- consider rubber coating if your A-frame’s looking a little weathered. If you cover a contact obstacle with a tarp for the winter, make sure water doesn’t just puddle and ruin your obstacle.
    • Check all metal for rust. If your obstacle has gotten rusty, sand it off and use rustoleum on it.  Store it where it won’t get wet.
    • Bring bars inside. If you’ve been meaning to do some decorating, bring your poles and bars inside to tape during the winter.
    • Store it together. Try to keep obstacle pieces together as best you can.  Many times when you open your shed first thing in the spring you get PVC blind and have forgotten how everything goes together. It’s much easier if you keep things together to start with.
    • Tunnels do best if they’re brought in for the winter. Collapse them as small as they get, and use twine to keep it tight or store them in their bags.  Put it out of reach of rodents and bored dogs.
    • Decide what goes in the living room. No, really! You can’t just quit for the cold months. Figure out what equipment is unobtrusive and useful indoors.  My personal favorites are multitasking obstacles, or difficult obstacles. Conditioning obstacles are also a good idea.  Make sure it doesn’t take up so much space it overtakes your house, though.
    • Put all your ribbons away in a safe place. Not necessarily part of your course, of course, but if you’re like me, you’ll want to see them again, and it’s  very disappointing when ribbons have been crushed.  They’re very hard to get right again! (note: an iron set on its’ very lowest setting, on the ‘wrong’ side of the ribbon worked very well for me- or ironing through a moistened towel.)

    Winterizing your course makes everything easier in the spring, when it’s time to set things back up, or even a big warm spell in January and you want to just get a few things out to work with.

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  • 25Mar

    10117628-teeter-totter-tdaaQ. I compete in AKC agility with my Poodle that weighs 2.5 pounds.  She sometimes can tip the teeter plank and sometimes not.  When trialing if she goes to the end of the teeter and the plank does not move, what would the judge do? What should I do?

    A. An AKC representative offers this response: “An AKC teeter that is properly calibrated will go down when a 2.5 pound dog is at the end of it.  There are several dogs of that size currently competing.

    “If the teeter for some reason wouldn’t go down and the dog is at the end of the board, the handler should pick the dog up and politely ask the judge if he or she calibrated the teeter yet on that day.  If the judge answers that it hasn’t been calibrated, they should ask that it be checked and if found in need of correcting, then the dog should be awarded a rerun, using the proper rules for reruns.”

    The rules for reruns that apply to equipment malfunction can be found in the AKC Judges Guidelines, Chapter 7, Section 2.  In some cases of equipment malfunction, the dog and handler may continue the run and later perform the problematic obstacle (for example, when a weave pole breaks while the dog is weaving).  But in this case, the dog can’t continue; she is stuck on the teeter.  The Guidelines state: “Sometimes the malfunction affects the dog or handler greatly, and the run basically stops at that point.  In these cases, the equipment should be fixed, and the dog should be given and opportunity to perform it (one time) immediately, to reacclimate itself to the obstacle prior to completing the course or the rerun as described below.  If the dog had incurred faults that would keep it from qualifying at the time of the severe malfunction, the handler should be allowed to simply complete the course at that time.  If the dog was qualifying at the time of the severe malfunction, then the handler would be instructed that a rerun would be necessary.  All faults incurred in the first run (up to the point of the malfunction) would remain in effect, and judging would begin at the point where the severe equipment malfunction occurred.  Exhibitors must be briefed with rerun criteria as stated in stopwatch/e-timer malfunctions.”

    © Clean Run, January 2009

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  • 01Mar

    Many people have knee, foot or other physical limitations which keep them from running in order to improve cardiovascular fitness. Even if you don’t enjoy exercise or going to a gym, walking is a terrific way to move your body in a way it was meant to while doing something positive for your life and your dogs. I know you thought this article might help you to walk an agility course. It very well may! Whether a participant in a walking race event, agility competitor, or just the average Joe, it’s always good know how to walk quickly and efficiently with good form.

    Fast walking begins with proper technique, then speed. Using proper technique and good body alignment, energy radiates from the ground up while arms and legs work together to transmit speed and power into each step. When learning body awareness and new walking form, slow down at first. Soreness will work itself out with practice. Walking with the right technique, adding a brief warm up and cool down with some light stretching, will also help to prevent injury. These techniques may be used walking on the sidewalk, grass, or treadmill (gripping the handrails as little as possible).

    Head and Torso: Good posture while walking will help you breath better and avoid back pain.

    • Think of being tall and straight (back not arched)
    • Eyes looking forward about 20 feet (not looking down)
    • Lean slightly or 5 degrees forward if walking very fast
    • Chin up, parallel to ground, nose pointed forward
    • Shoulders down (shrug up and down a few times to make sure)
    • Head remains level (all motion is from the shoulders down)
    • Pull in on your belly button/abdominal muscles
    • Tuck rear end in slightly to keep from arching back
    • Hips will rotate slightly side to side but excessive moment is wasteful

    Arm motion:

    • Arms bent at 90 degrees
    • Hands in a loosely closed curl (fists not clenched)
    • Elbows close to body (no bird wings)
    • With each step straight back the opposite arm moves back (hand toward the hip)
    • With each forward step the opposite arm comes straight forward (not diagonally)
    • Avoid swinging arms across the center of the body
    • Hands lower than chest (avoid upward pumping)

    Foot motion:

    • Heel strikes the ground first with ankle flexed
    • Think about showing the underside of your shoe to oncoming walkers
    • Roll through the step: heel to toe
    • Push off the toe (a good push off the rear leg will add power and speed to your step and stretch your hips)
    • Bring the back leg forward again to strike with the heel.

    [note: shins or ankles may hurt at first until they get stronger.]

    Leg motion:

    • Keep a natural stride length rather than over-striding
    • Rear-push-off leg stride will be longer than leg in front of body
    • Think of keeping the rear leg on the ground as long as possible then push through the toes
    • Think of driving forward with leg, rather than knees upward, while presenting heel to the ground
    • Increase strides: quicker smaller strides enable more steps per second and better use of the back leg.
    • Feet should not slap the ground noisily. This will improve as strength improves
    • Hips naturally rotate front to back with each stride but not side to side.Putting this into practice:

    If recovering from an injury, deconditioned, or just learning, start out with short 5-15 minute walks 5-6 days per week. Each week add about 5 minutes per day to the walk while monitoring form and gradually adding speed. After about a month, or once able to accomplish a brisk walk (let’s say about 4 MPH) for 30 minutes, you can also add jogging intervals (provided you have healthy knees, feet, ankles, and hips). If looking to improve endurance for agility runs, the intervals would consist of walking 3-5 minutes, then jogging 30 seconds to 1 minute, and repeating until completing about 8 cycles (roughly 45 minutes total). For more advanced walkers, sprint intervals can be joined with light jogging intervals in the same way: light jog 3-5 minutes, sprint 30 seconds-1 minute. Incorporate our interval training every other road work session to allow for recovery time.

    The best part about getting reconditioned this way? You can easily take along one of your dogs, friends, or family members for motivation and condition them too. Everyone can find a few minutes a day to start consciously walking. Just do it!

    How can this help you walk an agility course? Once you know your body has better endurance, muscular efficiency, and good walking form and mechanics imprinted on our nervous system, we can walk a course confidently thinking about our handling maneuvers and positions, while more accurately considering where our body will be in relationship to our dog.

    Kimber Chase, CFT, AFT has been certified fitness and aquatic trainer for 15 years. She lives in South Florida and has been competing in agility for 9 years with two border collies. She can be reached at kimfit@bellsouth.net or through her website at http://www.completephysique.com/.

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