LIMITED TIME ONLY! We’re offering a new DVD! Foundation Training set starts at the ground and builds up to a ready-to-run agility partner! You’ll learn how to teach name recognition, focus, releases, touches, stays, crosses, flatwork, and many other invaluable agility skills! Available for a limited time only from Affordable Agility. Call (1-800-254-9441) or email us (sales@affordableagility.com) for availability.
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18Jan
Tags: Affordable Agility News, agility beginners, agility training
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28Nov
We’ve received more requests for teeter training tips this year than we ever have before! Jen Pinder’s new 3 DVD set has an entire DVD to help with teeter problems, as well as a beginning to end seesaw training program. We’re very happy to be able to offer this to you this holiday season! If you’re interested in this item, check our sales – or call us at 1 800 254 9441.Tags: Affordable Agility News, agility obstacles, agility training
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23Nov
Pat asked; I have two questions. 1. the only obstacle that I am having a problem with is my ECS coming down the teeter. She hesitates at the top and needs to be coaxed down. How can I get her to just keep going?2. Would more than basic obedience be bad for us when we are doing agility? Some say being that you train the dog on the left side, they could have a harder time learning the right side of you.
For the teeter I suggest rewarding at the end of the plank. In class we usually put duct tape on the end and then smear some spray cheese or peanut butter on the end. It may be that she doesn’t like the motion or noise – if so, take a step back in your teeter training and reward speed and pivot and sound as you do so. (Also, keep an eye out for the holiday sales at AffordableAgility (or call and ask us we’d love to help!– we’re getting in a new product for a limited time only, JUST for teeter training!)
I personally love basic obedience – and advanced obedience. However, I do suggest making sure you learn to work off both sides. I do not think that this is confusing for the dog, since I use a different command for heeling off my left and heeling off my right (a really good trick to have in your repertoire!) and I use no verbal commands, just hand signals for handling agility – I point to the side he’s supposed to be on. So far, it’s worked out well for us, and I do like that he’s a bit more manageable outside the agility ring than some other agility dogs I know. I do use only positive methods to teach him, however, no matter what we’re learning, from herding to obedience to agility!
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09Nov
What method do you use for weaving? Channels, 2×2’s, something unique to you? What’s your best tip for weave-working?
You could win a 6 pole weave wire set, or, if you prefer, a Clean Run Exercise Source Book! Share your weave knowledge with us for your chance to win!
How to enter this contest:
If you have never done so before, you must first register your email address on this blog. We will then notify you if you are a winner of this contest. You only need to do this once, and you will be good for all future monthly contests (and get priority notification of when they occur)!
Scroll to the bottom of this page and enter your comment/answer. Or, if there is no box, click on the “comments” in the upper right corner. The winner is Patandchickens! Congratulations!
Tags: Affordable Agility News
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21Oct
What size tunnel should I get?We offer a wide variety to suit all your tunneling needs, but sometimes it’s nice to hear the pluses – and minuses – of individual tunnels, or suggestions on which might be best.
Generally, our practice line is great for backyard use with a few dogs. These tunnels are lighter than what you might see at a competition, and made out of heavy-duty canvassy material. Store when not in use to make your tunnel last longer!
The competition line is heavy duty, super strong, and fits competition standards. These tunnels are quite a bit more expensive than the practice tunnels, but clubs, trainers, and some individuals find it worthwhile.
Length: If you want nice S curves, a 15-20’ tunnel is best, but if all you need is a simple C, a 9’ will work nicely! Our 6’ tunnels are for small dogs, and they can also be coaxed into a C shape – although it’s a sharp curve on those tunnels!
Diameter: We offer 19”, 22”, 24” and 28” diameter tunnels! How do you choose?! When in doubt, I always suggest our customers go with competition diameter – 24” for most organizations. If you are not going to compete at any time and have a giant breed, you may like the 28” super giant tunnels. The 19” diameter works for toy dogs or puppies, but we don’t suggest it for taller dogs.

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