• 20Jul

    Reactive dogs are defined as a dog who reacts fearfully or aggressively (which is just another fear-response) to certain specific stimuli.  Recognize that just because your dog is reactive does not mean they are a ‘bad’ dog.  It means they are special needs and probably sensitive.  Please by all means talk to your veterinarian to rule out physical or diet related causes of reactivity.

    The first action you should take is if you suspect your dog is reactive, find exactly what triggers them.  Dogs do give warning signs, and it’s important to tune in to your dog’s signs of stress and reactivity.

    Agility is already one of the best things you can do for your reactive dog.  Agility builds confidence, and gives the dog a stronger bond to you as a handler, and allows you to learn to read your dog with more accuracy.

    Don’t give up! Sometimes it may seem like you’re stuck and your dog isn’t hearing you, but they are.  It may take a very long time, but you will see progress.

    Keep them controlled. If you know what sets your dog off, keep them away from that stimulus, at least at first.  Then, control your dog’s exposure to that stimulus. Also, depending on the reactiveness of your dog, don’t allow them offleash except when they are the only dogs out and the area they are in is enclosed.  This can be difficult for agility players, but a vital precaution I believe, as some dogs will flee what is making htem frightened, and others may attack. Either way, you may stand a risk of losing your dog.

    Have an end goal in view. Let’s say your dog hates men in hats.  What do you want them to do when they see a man in a hat?  Don’t train a negative, such as ‘don’t bark at the man! or run away!’, train a positive, such as ‘sit down and look at me when you see a man in a hat and you will have treats!’ or something of that sort.  It is much better to train your dog to DO something than to train them NOT to do something.

    Some dog’s reactivity is a matter of poor or no socialization.  Carefully acclimatizing your dog to social situations can help tremendously in reducing your dog’s unacceptable behavior.  Don’t just go to the vet where your dog is unhappy – go to the pet store and get treats from the bins and give them to your dog, or long walks on nature trails, through the city, etc.

    Don’t be afraid to protect your dog! When my dog is approached by a child who looks like a head-smacking child, I tell the parent ‘don’t let your child touch my dog please’, and in a few cases, have used my body to keep the child away from my dog. (please note, I am careful not to touch other people’s children, the adults understandably get upset about that.)  I also inform other people that my dog is not dog friendly!  It’s amazing how many people can suddenly control their ‘just friendly’ dog.  (an excellent, AMAZING article on ‘friendly’ dogs has been written by Suzanne Clothier, found here.  I could not phrase it any better than she could when she says what seems ‘friendly’ is really just rude.).

    This is by no means an end all be all article for reactive dogs – but by experimentation, patience, and attention to your dog, while controlling your dog and their atmosphere, you can at least make a good start towards a less fearful dog.

    Tags:

  • 18Jul

    If you’re on a tight budget but you need weaves that can adapt to any training style for practice, stick in the ground weaves are for you.   Stick in the grounds also benefit situational learning dogs who shape their weaving behavior around the base.  Dogs who learn to weave by watching the base are thrown off by other base styles, making weave performances in competition a shot in the dark.  With stick in the ground weaves, there is no base to watch, and instead, the dog will learn to weave from the poles.

    To set up your stick in grounds for channel weaves, take a measuring tape and lay it down, setting at 10’. Stick the weaves in every 24” inches for most venues – 21” inches for TDAA.  Offset them to the right and left of the tape, with the first weave set out to the right.

    If your soil and lawn is just right, you can also set up the weaves as weave-o-matics!  This training style has fallen slightly out of style, but some trainers still prefer it.

    2×2 weave training and straight line practice weaves are easy – just set up the 10’  measuring tape and stick the poles in appropriately.

    For affordable versatile practice weaves, you can’t beat the stick in the ground weave set!

    Tags:

  • 13Jul

    Recently someone asked me how to get the most out of their agility classes – this is the list I came up with! Do you have any other ideas?

    • Be on time for set up – and help set up! Most instructors require this, and it’s no fun when only one person comes in time to do set up and has to do it alone.
    • Put away your cellphone, and turn it to vibrate  Some dogs are frightened by loud cellphone tones.  This can turn a little disastrous on contacts, and you’ll focus better if you put it away for a bit
    • Listen to your instructor and use your crate: popup crates save the day in agility classes, since they’re not so heavy that dragging them around is backbreaking, and settling your dog in there while you’re listening to class instructions makes it easier to concentrate, instead of worrying about the other end of the leash.
    • Have things handy! Have your treats already prepared and safely stored in a treat bag, your leash where you can find it, and everything else you can need organized.  I just leave my trunk ready to go!
    • Bring the best treats and toys.  Sometimes, agility class is just so thrilling that dogs run off to see the sights and sniff the obstacles.  Help keep their attention with the nicest treats and toys.
    • Water I know I’ve been saying this a lot lately, but in almost every class I see a thirsty dog who is getting fussy.
    • Let loose! Don’t obsess about perfect. Perfect will come with practice!  Focus on getting your connection to your dog and having fun.
    • Do your homework! It benefits you and your dog immensely, and helps you get your money’s worth out of the class.  A five minute or less session once or twice a day is better than no practice – and actually is more fun for your dog than half-hour drills.
    • Set up a Distance Sometimes a bit of a distance between crates is a good thing.  For some dogs, it’s  a must!  Respect boundaries.
    • Bring a Chair Agility is full of ‘hurry up and wait’.  When you are waiting your turn with your dog crated, and are just watching, a chair can be a godsend.  I can’t sit on Quick’s crate without fear of crushing him and the crate, so a collapsible chair is handy.  It also holds all your ‘stuff’ while you are out on your turn!

    Tags: ,

  • 11Jul

    Quick did his very first jump chute!  Amazing, he went from just meeting a jump for the first time last week to doing three in a row, with curvy tunnels on both ends.  He loves, loves, LOVES sequencing.

    Sadly, I got too excited on his teeter and let him do too big a drop.  He got a little scared!  Fortunately, not scared enough to not love his teeter still, once I had lowered it again and softened the bump.  We will work on that a bit more, and I’ll remember to be patient.  Just because Quick loves motion doesn’t mean I can take him from a 6 to a 10 inch drop immediately.

    The first night of outdoor practice, and Quick fell off the dogwalk because a cricket startled him!  I was watching him out of the corner of my eye as he trotted along the plank, happy as a clam with his tail up, and a cricket chirped loudly off to his right.  He turned to look, and yep, there he goes, falling off the 36” dog walk!  He got back up, looking very surprised, and after belly rubs and a treat, we did the dogwalk again, with no further mishaps.  I’m very glad it didn’t scare him so badly we had to start all over.  That would have been hard!

    They’re really not kidding when they say you need a set of weaves at home! I’ve opting to get a set of stick in the grounds, because practice at class is just not enough for him to learn weave behavior.

    Tags: ,

  • 07Jul

    I visit a lot of petcare, pet health, and dog-centric blogs, websites, and businesses, as well as reading articles about pets.  I love my job!  Pet insurance is a growing trend everywhere, and I was wondering – what’s your opinion?- do you think it’s worthwhile? Do you think it would be especially helpful for an agility dog?

    I quoted my dogs, and their size and breed made the cost prohibitively high for me.  I would sooner save the money I would spend on my premium every month and use it in case of emergencies, since typically I only have to take them to the vet once a year (though there was the Incident with the Raccoon.) I wonder if it covers sports injuries? Hmm…

    Also in related news, pet medications might be going generic! Just like human medicines, patents expire, and generics can be made!  Check out the full story here.

    Tags:

« Previous Entries   

Recent Posts

Recent Comments

  • That is really neat! Thank you Kim!...
  • They do make VHF tracking collars for dogs that are used to ...
  • I totally agree. Your dog is young, and with time will lear...
  • Well, my dogs must be weird too...I was using baking soda to...
  • Yep, they seem to! they lean in and try to lick it up! I gi...