• 31Mar

  How to get more speed and drive in your agility dog

  Dog Agility Training 6 Comments

  Depending on your dog of course, one of the common challenges in agility training is motivating an unmotivated dog. I think one of the problems that we as humans have in our relationships with dogs, is that we don’t know to really ‘connect’ with our dogs on a case-by-case basis. We pack yummy treats to our agility class, or their favorite tug toy, but what used to seem to work for our other dogs, or even the same dog, is no longer working very well. What do we do? We need to immediately stop doing what doesn’t work. There’s a neat saying that says “Stupidity is doing the same thing over and over again, hoping for a different result”. So if we want to be smart, we need to do something different. Maybe even something outside our comfort zone (Yes, I’m talking about acting silly and talking baby talk if necessary!). The main point is to find what REALLY drives your dog crazy. But what if there isn’t anything that your dog is gets really excited about? I suggest finding something then that he is most motivated by, even if isn’t as much as you’d like, and then using that item in agility training ONLY. Don’t flood him all week with something and then expect that during your training sessions that he’ll go nutsy over it.

  Here is my list of ideas. If you have any others, please add a comment!

  • Don’t use anything that doesn’t work. Switch gears fast.
  • Pay attention to what motivates your dog best, especially during non-agility times. Then use this reward in your agility training, but not any other time.
  • Be willing to change your motivators from time to time as needed.
  • Be creative. Something the best motivator is one you’d least expect of your dog!
  • Get less serious. Take more time to play with your dog after a succession of accurately completed obstacles. Wrestle and roll on the ground if necessary.
  • Shorten your training sessions and always end them on a positive note. Do not drag it out so long that your dog gets tired and loses interest. The goal is to create only positive memories of your agility sessions.

  For more ideas on this subject, we suggest this article in our Learning Center: Agility Help For My Dog. Also, this is a great article from Annelise Allen of Agile Canines…”The Importance Of Playing With Your Dog For Motivation”.

  

  Tags: agility training

• 30Mar

  The best method for training the weave poles

  Dog Agility Equipment, Dog Agility Training 11 Comments

  As you know, weave poles can be the most challenging obstacle for your dog to learn. What is the best way to teach them? What are trainers recommending? I myself trained my dog the ‘old-fashioned’ way, with the poles simply straight up and down. I ‘shaped’ her to go in and out by using body language such as gentle knee bumping and hand signals. For awhile she weaved pretty reliably, but then to my surprise (agility is all about surprises!) she began ‘popping’ out of poles from time to time. I added the clip-on wires to my set, and this definitely worked to break the habit. I’ve been a proponent of the wires since. But if I had to do it all over again, I think now I would use the channel method, even though it has a more complex base. It’s been popular with trainers for years, and is touted to be an almost fool-proof method if the process isn’t rushed. Today the popular 2 x 2 (Versaweaves) method is actually very similar in concept to the channel method. Without a doubt it is definitely the rage with all the top trainers, and if you can afford a really good set that will last you through all your years of agility training, this is the one to get. The principle is the same as the weave-a-matic and channel method (just different in its base structure), that is, to create a ‘pathway’ for your dog to run through that does not require your dog to weave ~ at first. The goal is to then slowly bring the poles closer and closer to each other so that your dog begins to weave ever so slightly. Eventually you bring the poles in a straight line. It’s a great method for really getting your dog to mentally understand the concept of weaving.

  Don’t worry too much about choosing a set though. Every method has its proponents! The key is patience, no matter what set you use. If you don’t rush the process, and you work at it a little each day to the point of success, your dog will learn them. And remember, we are always here to help you with any questions you have!

  

  Tags: agility obstacles, agility training, weave poles

• 29Mar

  Don’t let your dog stop and smell these flowers!

  Interesting and Funny 3 Comments

  Did you know that some of spring’s most beautiful flowers are toxic (even deadly) to dogs? DogChannel.com lists 10 of the most poisonous plants. Topping the list are daffodils, hyacinths, azaleas, and the Japanese yew (the red berries and plant). Of course smelling flowers isn’t harmful, but ingesting them can be fatal. Especially to puppies who can get into everything! For more information, you can read the full article here.

  The picture to the right is of “oleander”.  The article said this one was very toxic, and also common in landscaping.  I didn’t know what it looked like by the name.  Apparently it also comes in white.

  

  Tags: dog safety & health

• 28Mar

  What’s up with Wing Jumps?

  Dog Agility Equipment 3 Comments

  Another feature of this blog is to give you a sneak peak at the new projects that we might be working on at Affordable Agility. We’ve got a couple things up our sleeves. One of them, to be released next week, is a Competition Lattice Wing Jump.

  Why are wing jumps used so much in trials? You’ll see a lot of wing jumps at agility competitions. This is because it takes the relatively simple act of jumping to another level… getting your dog to jump farther away from you. For many dogs who are more ‘clingy’ to their owner’s sides (and for some owners who like them closer), this presents a challenge.

  Our new lattice wings are the common type that is used in agility trials all over. The holes allow the wind to pass through, and the plastic vinyl stands up to the weather.

  To be released soon!

  

  Tags: agility obstacles

• 10Mar

  Jump Height Confusion

  Dog Agility Competing, Dog Agility Training 1 Comment

  How does your dog measure up?

  Q. I am currently competing with my small collie cross Morgan over different jump heights. It all depends on who is running the show that I’ve entered. At one show he is classified as a medium dog and jumps over 20 inches (51 cm) and at another he is considered a mini dog and jumps over 15 inches (38 cm). Morgan doesn’t seem to have any trouble adjusting from one to the other and back against, but he does knock a few poles now and again. Should I stick to just one jump height?

  A. Five inches can make a big difference to some dogs. If you have a dog that can make the transition from 15 to 20 inches and back again without a problem, you are very lucky. Five inches can make a lot of difference to some dogs. Morgan must check the height of the pole, adjust his take off to sail over the top and nail his landing. The taller the jumps, the more rounded and less flat he will be going over the poles. Morgan is either a natural jumper or you have trained him very well.

  And the extra five inches can make a lot of different to some handlers! Morgan may be faster over lower jumps and it may be more difficult to keep up with him. You have to be quicker to get in position and you need to give your commands a little sooner. Over the higher jumps you need to reset your timing once again. There is a little more time to get where you want to be on the course. So often it is the handler who has the most trouble adjusting between jump heights and will favor one over the other. You do not seem to have a preference and can compete happily at either height.

  Take a few practice jumps with you to the show. Set them to the height at which you will be competing and do a few jumping exercises with Morgan. This will not only allow Morgan to set his sights on the height he will be working over, but it will give you the change to brush up on your timing.

  Sticking to one jump height would certainly make things easier for both you and Morgan, but if you enjoy going to different shows and have no problem competing over different jump heights, why stop? There are many other reasons for a pole dropping. If it happens only occasionally, I suspect that Morgan is knocking a pole because of one of these rather than being affected by different jump heights in his classes. When he becomes an old dog, Morgan may find the extra five inches more difficult. Then it will be time to reassess his jumping style and think about sticking to one type of class, but while he is fit and healthy I see no reason why you can’t have fun doing both heights.

  Used with permission.
  From Questions and Answers on Dog Agility Training, by Mary Ann Nester, T.F.H. Publications
  Visit Mary Ann at http://www.aslanagility.com/
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  Tags: agility training

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